2013 US National Parks Tour Overview

2013 US National Parks Tour Overview
Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts

Monday, June 10, 2013

Day 14: Page, AZ to Cortez, CO

Stops:
Lake Powell, AZ
Rainbow Bridge National Monument, UT
Monument Valley, AZ
Cortez,CO

Lake Powell is a man made lake created by the Glen Canyon Dam that took 17 years to fill.  The Rainbow Bridge National monument is contained within the Glen Canyon recreation area and before the lake was filled, it would take 3 days to hike to it. With the lake, it is a few hours boat ride or 50 water miles.  We decided on taking the only available boat tour on the lake.  We felt like the youngest couple there as the tour was mostly full if senior citizens, but we really wanted to see the Rainbow Bridge National Monument.  After all, it is the largest natural bridge on earth.  
There were two, very nice rangers there that explained how the bridge formed and pointed out a dinosaur track nearby. It is like the dinosaur is a Dilophosaurus, predecessor to the T Rex.
Ready to finally leave the 100+ degrees temperature, it was time to head to Colorado.  On the way we stopped at Kayenta, AZ to see the WWII Navajo Code Talkers exhibit which happens to be inside a Burger King restaurant.  Apparently the owner's father was a code talker.  Very nice exhibit, worth visiting and spending 15 min at.
Finally, we stopped by Monument Valley to catch a sunset before calling it a night and crossing into Cortez, CO.

Friday, June 7, 2013

Day 11: Zion NP to Tuba City, AZ

Stops:
Zion NP (The Narrows)
Kanab, UT
Grand Canyon (North Rim) NP
Tuba City, AZ

We woke up bright and early and drove into the park to the visitor's center so that we can grab the shuttle to Temple of Sinawava and hike the Narrows.  There weren't many people in the morning, but as the day went on, a lot more people decided to join us.  I highly recommend wearing closed toed shoes that you can get wet and have some traction on them.  You have to cross the VIrgin River several times.  Sometimes, it can get slippery, so I also recommend a trekking pole or walking stick.  Some people rent neoprene boots and socks as well.  We did, but I saw plenty of people using their hiking boots or tennis shoes.  The water was cool but only 57 degrees which felt quite refreshing, actually.  I don't think we needed the neoprene socks.  I saw people with wetsuits, but I think that was overkill. The water didn't get any higher than my crotch and it was mostly ankle to knee deep in most places.

We hiked up to the junction where it splits into Zion Canyon Narrows and Orderville Canyon.  We went down the Orderville canyon a little bit until we reach a stack of logs and rocks we didn't want to go over.  We headed back up to the Zion Canyon Narrows for a little bit (we didn't go to Big Springs) and then headed back.
One final trip through the tunnels and we were headed back towards Mt. Carmel and then to Kanab, UT.  Kanab was a popular location for some of the old western TV shows and movies like the Lone Ranger and Bonanza and movies like The Outlaw Josey Wales.  There was a roadside attraction called Little Hollywood that we stopped at.  They had moved the original sets of many western movies to behind the storefront of Little Hollywood.  Worth a short visit, especially if you are a fan of old western TV shows and movies.

I've been to the Grand Canyon several times but never to the North Rim.  We decided to go there and catch a sunset.  There was no place to camp our even rent a cabin on the North Rim, so our only choice was to leave the park, so we decided to just get to Page, AZ, but we made a mistake at Jacob Lake, which would cost us bigtime as we had to take an extensively long detour and ended up sleeping in an unexpected town (Tuba CIty, AZ)...


Day 12: Tuba City to Page, AZ

A is a little better at organizing his thoughts and themes in a logical timeline, so this post will overlap a bit in time with my prior post about our misadentures with my navigating.  On our trip taking the detour from the North Rim to Page, we saw many semi trucks and RVs in pull outs, clearly down for the night.  This was not an option for us, because in addition to safety concerns, this girl needs a proper bathroom from time to time. 

So we took the detour and kept driving...and driving...and driving... there wasn't much to see on the road.  We felt lucky to find a gas station that let us pay at the pump even after hours.  $50 worth only, but that was a good safety since we still had miles to go before we could sleep.

It was somewhere in this timeframe that we had our UFO sighting.  What you have to understand about the region of Arizona where we are driving is that it is DARK.  Really, really dark.  I was wearing my glasses (for the aforementioned deer sighting) and was viewing the many visible stars.  So I didn't just catch sight of something weird out of the corner of my eye, but I fully saw a bright white light fall straight down to the earth.  I didn't really believe my own eyes and was still processing as A cried out, "Did you see that?!"  We had both seen it and cannot think of any explanation for it.  A looked up information on the internet and found no suggestions.  I think he's going with secret military operation rather than UFO, but I'm on the fence. In either case, I was looking forward to getting into a town full of witnesses, er, people.  

Coming up: Tuba City, AZ.  There was no Walmart there, but we figured there must be some quiet neighborhood street that we could go incognito on.  We'd be out and on the road early.  On the way into Tuba City, we say a few RVs pulled into a lot next to Denny's, so we thought, even better, we'll join this crowd.

We made a quick stop in at McDonalds, where we've been enjoying the $1 beverages, air conditioning and free internet service.  And seriously, keep the judgement to yourself - in some places, this and Walmart are lifesavers for us.  After cooling down, a little, we headed back to Denny's where we noted a sign we'd missed on our first pass, which read: NO OVERNIGHT PARKING.  YOU WILL BE TOWED AT YOUR EXPENSE!  

Ok. 

A decided to start looking around for a street with other cars so that we could get ourselves bedded down per our original plan, but there were no cars on the streets.  As he was driving, he couldn't really see what I was seeing until the next day, but two out of three houses were boarded up and many appeared in poor enough condition to warrent condemning.  There were also many dogs roaming about.  I called them "wild" dogs, but they could just be unleashed pets.  It was still disconcerting to see these very assured dogs wandering the street.   

I told A I would not feel safe staying on the street there, but we didn't quite know what to do as it was getting late.  There was an Inn and RV park so we pulled in to check the prices and one of the dogs was just waiting in front of the door.  Now, a dog is usually a welcome sight to me - I love dogs and have enjoyed seeing dogs on our travels to date, but these dogs just made me feel like we were in a horror movie.  They were normal looking dogs, but they gave me the heebie-jeebies.  

A decided he would drive through the night and get us to Page.  Remembering the advice given by Cathy and Dean, the couple we met at Bryce, who told us, "you can usually do anything you want if you just ask."   I told A to stop briefly at the Travel Center so I could check on overnight parking.  We hadn't thought to try them, because it's an immaculate brand new center and there wasn't an area for big rigs and there didn't appear to be any other overnight cars there.  

The young clerk and his manager were very nice, though and welcomed us to sleep in the back.  This was one of the best nights of sleep I've had on the trip so far.  

The next morning, we got up and out and on our way to Page.  We made a quick stop at the "Elephant Feet" stones, but it was too hot to linger.  In Page, we headed once again to an air conditioned haven for a cold one, but after being cooped up in the van for a while, we needed to stretch our legs, so despite the late hour a little past noon, we headed out to Horseshoe Bend.  Just a 1/2 mile hike uphill in hot sand gets you to a great overlook to this unique bend in the Colorado River.  It was really hot up there on the rocks, but worth the climb and beautiful.  

While A was shooting, I had a brainstorm that we would probably be nice and cool in the Glen Canyon Dam.  From the fist glimpse of the bridge and dam, I knew I would like this Dam experience.  We found a shady spot to park Moby, purchased tour tickets and enjoyed the view of the Dam and Lake Powell in a semi-torperous state until our tour was called.  Our guide, Mr. Curtis Slim, was engageing and informative.  He gestured a lot with his hands and had a lot of insight to share.  At the beginning of the tour, you are  informed of the rules which include not using certain words, such as: bomb, terrorist, or sabotage.  When someone asked why not, he said that the Glen Canyon Dam as well as dams in general are controversial and that the Glen Canyon Dam when it created Lake Powell, resulted in many historical sites and petroglyphs being destroyed and covered by water.
The Glen Canyon Dam is the third largest in the US - even larger than the Hoover Dam - and was worth a visit.  
The ranger at the Dam pointed us to the Glen Canyon National Recreation area, which includes most, if not all, of Lake Powell.  With our annual America The Beautiful InterAgency Pass, we got in for free, so we checked out some lookouts as the time was right for good lighting and then went to the beach.  The water was cool when I got my shoes off and waded a little, but the beach was a little disappointing as it was littered with dirty diapers.  After we got back to Moby, we decided not to go for a full swim, but considered returning the next day.  
At this point, it was again time to find a spot for shade and sleep.  It's so hot, though, that A considered a hotel with a pool.  I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, but we bought the van to avoid those kinds of expenses.  Walmart's parking lot held little appeal though.  Enter Page Lake Powell Campground.  The reviews were not great on Yelp, but when I read the criticisms, such as "few trees," and "tent sites are on gravel/rock," balanced with comments such as "clean" and amenities such as "hook ups," "pool" and "free internet," we decided it was worth checking out.  We got into the office just before they closed and secured a space for the next two nights.  A's comment, "you sold me on RV parks," was a good reward for my research, but the hour we got in the pool at the end of the night and the showers were even better.  

Day 13: Upper Antelope Canyon

The Antelope Canyons are among the most famous slot canyons in the world, known for the deep, rich colors from the light bouncing off the walls to the beams of sunlight hitting the sandy floor.  It has made for some of the best photographs known to man (or at least to me).  

The Navajo Indians completely run this operation and you cannot get into the upper slot canyon on your own.  I've heard you can get into the lower slot canyon (which requires climbing down some ladders) with a 2 hour pass that the Navajo Indians have to give you.  I'll have to try that one of these days.

Anyway, I booked my tour with Chief Tosie tours.  There are a total of 6 tour companies, all of which are owned and operated by Navajo Indians.  I usually go with Roger Ekis tour company, but he was full.  BTW, don't worry about making reservations.  You can simply go to the entrance off AZ-89 and there are people waiting to take you on a tour, but there are also the 6 tour companies.  This is both good and bad.  You'll see why shortly.

I arrived for my appointment at 1 PM.  Not my preferred time, but we didn't know when we were getting into Page, AZ, so instead of the 10:30 AM tour, I played it safe with the 1 AM tour.  The 10:30 AM tour was more about the sunbeams which would be there around noon time.  The 1 PM tour was more about colors and textures.  This was my 3rd time back, I already had pictures of sunbeams, I was more fascinated anyway by the colors and textures.  I heard if you go on their 5 PM tour our 8 AM tour, the colors are even deeper.

Anyway, I arrived on time for my tour, but our guide was about 15 min late, and to top it off, we were waiting on 2 people who were late.  Timeliness is important when you paid good money for a tour to start on time. Everyone needs to be there on time. I was going to complain about this later.  Anyway, we had a really nice guide and fellow photographer, Josh. 

The drive to the entrance of the slot canyon was plenty eventful.  First off, some idiot who was either texting on his cell or staring at the scenery, crossed the center line and nearly had a head-on collision with us, but Josh swerved in time and the other guy get back into his lane.  So far the tour start was looking like a disaster.  

Once we arrived at the park lot, Josh put the truck into 4WD and we headed out.  This was one of those places you truly need 4WD as there was deep sand.  The ride was super bumpy and at one point the people sitting in the back of the truck hit their head on the roof. I felt sorry for them.  Josh apologized too as he said under his breath that they put too much air in the tires, over and over again.

We finally go to the slot canyon entrance and Josh told us all the directions and angles to shoot the photos.  This was great in the beginning as I could adjust my tripod and take my time, but then the hordes of people came from different tours.  Most of them were Japanese tourists arrive in 2 large tour buses.  This pretty much made it impossible for me to setup my shots and take my time.  I had other tour guides yelling at me, people in the way of my photos, and where I wanted to setup.  I eventually had to ditch the tripod and resort to bracing myself against the canyon walls in the hopes that I could get the picture I wanted.
Needless to say, I was annoyed, because I spent a lot of money for the tour and I didn't expect how commercialized the whole operation had become. I asked Josh how many people they get in a day in the summer.  He said 5000 a day.  Wow.

He said the tour companies don't tell you that sort of thing when you book the tour, but he suggest coming in early April or early October to get good photos without the crowds, or do the 6 AM tour.  I had no idea there was a 6 AM tour. It wasn't listed on the website.  

Anyway, the crowds became overwhelming and the tour, which was suppose to be 2.5 hours, was cut short by an entire hour.  Needless to say, I was pissed, but I knew an extra hour would be useless with the insane crowds of people.

We got back in the truck and headed out but at one point, Josh had gotten the truck stuck in the sand (or what seemed like it).  He was good though, you can tell he knew how to get out of it as he rocked the truck and turned the wheels side to side, we finally managed to get out of the hole he made. Whew.

When we got back to the tour company's headquarters, one of the employees instantly gave me a partial refund without me asking for it, which I thought I was the proper way to handle these sorts of manners. I left happier knowing that I got a partial refund, and some good pics.  I will note that I will never come back in the summer to this place for serious photography work, unless I can a 6 AM tour.
It was off to the RV park and it's swimming pool to cool off from the 100+ degree day.